Education

Important notes:
1. Blade must be squeaky clean. I scrub them with thinned Noscale-wipe off with a paper towel.
2. Make sure you have full coverage on stainless. Even small pin holes will create pits.
3. Do not-I repeat-Do not contaminate the NoScale 2000 with the Hamon 1800. Will eat your stainless.
4. Looks to have an unlimited shelf life. Try not to let it dry out. But if it does, simply add water and let it soak. Overnight is best, but I know how we all work.
5. Thin or reconstitute with non-chlorinated water. Does not have to be distilled but no chlorine

NoScale 2000
Meant to be a thin paint. Mix well. Brushed with foam brush or sprayed with an air brush. Can be instantly dried with heat gun, torch or heat from a forge.
Good for all carbon and stainless steels to 2000 degrees in forge or furnace. Have not tried salt baths.
Water and oil quench pops the coating off leaving a surprisingly durable black finish.
Plate quenching leaves the coating intact-turns white. Can be scrubbed off with water and a nylon scrubber. Wire wheel works as well.
No coarser than #220 finish on stainless.
Also used as a thin edge coat for helping to create hamons.

Hamon 1800
An aid to creating hamons in suitable steels.
This is not magic pixie dust- or maybe magic pixie slurry is a better term.

Creating hamons is a combination of steel, time and temperature. These three, carefully controlled, can create a hamon without any clay. The clay is a way to have a little more say in how the hamon looks-a little. A clay’s only jobs are-be easy to apply, stick to and stay on the blade and insulate it. This product does all of those things well.

This can be dried fairly fast. Once I have it applied, I stick it in a drying oven at 300 degrees for about 10-15 minutes.
Don’t apply it too thick. 1mm- 1.5mm is enough.